PETS &; ANIMALS

Rabbit health: Causes of a runny nose

2009-10-21T13:46:00.001+08:00

There can be many reasons why rabbits can sometimes be sick free for as long as 5 months and then suddenly the owners may realize that their rabbit has a runny nose. One of the most important things a pet owner must do when their pet is sick is to be observant.

It is very important to see exactly what is coming out of their pet rabbit's nose. Is it water like fluid or saliva? If so, what colour is the water? These are some of the main questions asked when the rabbit is taken to a veterinarian.If the colour of the rabbit's discharge from the nose is ever coloured, it is a sign of Pastuerella. However other than that there are many various causes of a runny nose, it could be the slight change in weather which doesn't spare us humans or dust from the hay or dust from the pellets, even the pollen in the air could be a suspect if your pet is allergic to it. If there is a strong odour coming from the bedding, like cedar, then that can also be one of the causes.

Causes:

Although the above mentioned are a bit too lenient of causes of a runny nose in the rabbit, one must also take note of some of the more serious causes of a runny nose. According to many studies, dental problems may be a cause of runny nose. Often in older rabbits, molar spurs or molar root problems can cause an inflammation or develop infections that later on spread to the sinuses, which obviously start off from runny noses.

The main cause of this is due to osteoporosis or a loss of bone density which forces the molars or even the front teeth to be pushed back when the rabbit starts to continually eat. The roots of the teeth are pushed back into the skull blocking the tear ducts of the rabbit thus forcing the rabbit to suffer from teary eyes or even a runny nose.

Dangers:

If the rabbit is otherwise fully healthy and performing its daily activities with the same amount of enthusiasm there is certainly nothing to be worried about as long the as the runny nose stays a runny nose. However just to be on the safe side, it is always better if a deep nasal swab is done in order to be a 100% sure.

Taking the new fish home: Transportation and acclimation procedures

2009-09-06T22:14:00.002+08:00

Here are some transportation and acclimation procedures to keep you and your fish safe.
Many times I have found the need to remind my customers of the importance of proper transportation and acclimation procedures for their new fish and aquarium pets.

Once the fish is put into the bag and it's sealed, unless pure oxygen is properly put into the bag with it, the fish will usually have about 20 - 30 minutes worth of oxygen in there with them. Bagging techniques differ from place to place, so knowing that the fish is bagged properly also helps to determine how long the fish can spend in the bag. The larger the bag the larger the quantity of water and air, meaning the longer amount of time the fish can survive in these conditions. Temperature is also important, and will drop quickly in winter months in cold climates. The reverse of this is true, also. In warm weather, temperatures in the bag will climb rapidly. It is always wise to take your new pet home immediately after leaving the store.

Keeping a cooler or styrofoam box with cover will help to control the temperature fluctuations that happen when a fish is transported. The cooler or box will also help to keep light out, which will help the fish to relax. Never shake a bag or container with live animals in it.
When you arrive home, it's important to know how to introduce your new fish to the aquarium properly. If we ignore proper procedures, illness, undue stress, shock, and even death can be the end result.

The bag will need to float in the aquarium for approximately 15 minutes. This time may vary if special or extreme changes are present. The bag must be opened as soon as possible, and left to float open in the aquarium. This can be accomplished by rolling the top portion of the bag down 2 3 times. Rolling the bag will trap air in the folds, which will help the bag to float. Every 2 - 3 minutes a small amount of aquarium water needs to be mixed into the bag with the fish. This is called dipping. This is a step that many miss. The conditions in the tank the fish came from will be different than the conditions in your tank, and the conditions in the bag will be different from both of those. The waste products from the fish will build up rapidly in a bag. Fish and aquarium pets have the ability to adjust in most cases, but this needs to be done gradually to avoid putting their bodies into shock. After 15 minutes and 3 - 4 dips of the new water, then it is safe to release the fish into it's new home.

Dipping and acclimation

can be done another way. If floating a bag is difficult or you fear getting dirty water into your tank from the bag, a bucket and airline tube, along with an air control valve can also work. The bucket procedure works great for large fish. To perform acclimation using the bucket procedure, the fish and all water from the bag should be released carefully into the bucket. Open the bag, set it into the bucket, then let it go. Once you release the bag, slowly turn it over allowing the fish and water to spill out gently. Once the fish and water are in the bucket, hang the airline tube into the tank, making sure the end is always submerged. There are many methods in which to do this, but a cover closed lightly over the tubing can help to anchor it and keep it below the water line in the tank. On the other end, install the air control valve. Open the valve completely. Start a siphon by gently sucking the air from the airline tubing. You'll want to take just a quick breath in from the tube and then drop it down into the bucket to hang above the water line. This will avoid any fear in getting water into your mouth. (a few practice runs with clean water before the fish comes home can help to avoid fish tank water entering your mouth) Once the water flow has begun, adjust the control valve to allow a slow drip of water to enter the bucket. A good gauge is to count the drips. One drip per second is a good drip rate for acclimation. When the water level in the bucket has doubled, it is time to stop the drip and move the new fish into the tank.

How we release the fish is also important. Never allow a store's tank water to enter your tank. If in doubt with floating the bag, use the bucket. A fish should be gently netted and moved to the tank without the dirty water from the bag. Some fish should never touch a fish net, such as fancy goldfish and plecostamus species. Goldfish fins can tear easily and plecostamus fins have spines, which are easily caught in a net. Torn or otherwise damaged fins are prone to fungal infections, and must be treated with the proper medication. Goldfish can be moved by holding them gently with 2 hands. One hand goes under the belly of the fish, the other hand goes over the top. Fish are slippery, so take your time and move slowly. Never squeeze a fish in your hand to secure it. The slower you approach a fish with your hand the less stress you cause, and the easier it is to catch it and move it. A plecostamus can be moved manually also. This is more

difficult. You have to approach the plecostamus from above and behind. All plecostamus have sharp spines in the cheek area, and spines in the dorsal and pectoral fins. Carefully lay your hand over the plecostamus from above, clamping the pectoral fins along the side of the fish with your thumb on one side and middle finger on the other. To avoid the spikes in the dorsal fin, move quickly enough to lay the palm of your hand over the top of the fish before the dorsal fin is erected. This will hold it to the fish's body and keep your hand safe. Gently clamp your hand around the fish this way, and lift it to the tank. Never drop a fish into the water. Gently set the fish into the tank near a rock or the substrate, then release and pull your hand back in a fluid movement, allowing the fish to swim away without feeling further threatened.

If this is not the first fish going into the tank, it is also a good idea to feed the other tank inhabitants before releasing new fish. Rearranging decorations in the tank while the new fish is still in the bag and floating/acclimating will help to ensure you are not adding an intruder. Changing and adding new decorations each time a new fish is introduced to the tank will cause every fish to claim new territory at the same time, thus leaving no intruders to be attacked or harassed when they first enter the tank.

Remember that your new fish is frightened and stressed. Many fish will not calm and adjust to their new home for at least 24 - 48 hrs. After this time they will tend to get more color, and settle into a normal activity pattern in your tank. The best thing we can do for them is to allow them time to adjust with the least amount of stress. Turning off the lights on the tank for the remainder of that day/night can help a fish settle in much faster.
Ensuring your fish a safe trip home is the first step in success!

Relatively unknown dog products and accessories priced under $80 ...

2009-09-02T23:07:00.001+08:00

There are so many cool products available for animals and animals lovers that it's really hard to figure out what you need and what you don't need. Well, I have made this a little easier for you. You are about to embark on a journey into the world of unique dog products...

My personal favorite product is The Everlasting Treat Ball. I'm not really sure how on Earth I ever lived without this wonderful little miracle product. According to the manufacturer "The treat ball is made of soft puncture resistant material that withstands even the toughest chewers. The unique design allows for it to wobble and roll around on it's own. Feed your dog his meal portions out of it or insert a Triple Crown Everlasting Treat". My little Pablo loves this thing and so, do I. It keeps him busy for hours and that makes me a very happy pet owner. This product runs about $15-20 for the ball and the treats are about $6 for a pack of two. This can be found at www.petsmart.com

Another fabulous product that you may not know about is Dispoz-A-Scoop bags. These little bags can fit neatly in your pocket or purse and they make the horrible job of cleaning up after your pet into a sanitary dream. This little bag has a self sealing closure and is odor free! They even have a little handle on the them so, you never have to "feel: the mess. The price range is $29.99 for a pack of 96 or $69.99 for a pack of 250. This can be found at www.petsmart.com

Do you travel a lot with your dog? The Pet Gear Travel System Car Seat is for you. This is just like the car seat systems for babies. It has a base that attaches to the seat of the car and the pet carrier attaches to it keeping your "fur-baby" safe and sound. It also has an attached food tray, a waterproof mat and has a small door on the top of it so; you can comfort your pet. This is a must have for the small dog owner. This retails for $79.99
This can be found at www.petsmart.com

During the hot months the Canine Cooler Pet Bed is a sure thing! It provides your pet with constant coolness and it has memory foam to give your dog the most luxury lounging spot ever. It is nontoxic product and comes with a 2 year warranty! This is great product for long haired dog or an older dog that has joint problems. The Canine Cooler Bed retails from $59.99-$99.99
This can be found at www.frontgate.com

Is golf your thing but, you dog loves tennis balls? Check out the Doggie Golf Driver. This innovative product allows you to practice your drive while exercising your dog. It drives a standard tennis ball up to 100 yards and the driver head picks up the tennis ball. It also comes with 4 tennis balls. This product is $39.50 and can be found at www.frontgate.com

The last can't live without product is the Illusion Collar and leash by Cesar Millan. According to Cesar's website this collar allows you to walk and train your dog using a slip collar correction without having to stop and realign the collar to the proper position. It provides the ability to give a firm yet, quick and gentle correction that eases up when the pressure is released. A normal collar falls at the base of the neck and does not provide as much control. This is not a collar to leave on your dog all the time this is just for training purposes and also, should not be used on dogs that are under 18lbs. This retails for $33.95 and you can get it at www.dogpsychologycenter.com

How to use a mounting block???

2009-08-30T15:42:00.003+08:00

Mounting blocks are an excellent tool in assisting the rider to mount the horse. It is easy to use a mounting block once the horse is accustomed to it.

When using a mounting block, ensure that it is of a sturdy material. The safest type of mounting blocks are solid wooden steps. Constructed in this way there will be nothing that the horse can get caught on. I have heard of accidents involving horses and mounting blocks. This has been a result of gaps being present between the steps and the horse has actually managed to get their leg caught. This is why the more solid mounting blocks are better in my opinion, rather than using a metal step ladder for instance. The mounting block must be able to withstand the riders weight. The horse would not appreciate the rider falling through the block. It should also have a non slip surface. From experience it it not much fun slipping on the top of the block when you are just about to mount. The mounting block must also be in a suitable place. A quiet place in the yard is good, preferably not on concrete which is slippery. It must not be close to traffic should the horse become frightened.

So you have a decent mounting block, now you need to get used to mounting from it. If the horse is not used to being mounted from a block, it may be necessary to get someone to hold him for the first few times. The idea is to get the horse to stand calmly and patiently. Once they have the hang of it, you will no longer need someone to hold the horse. If the horse is not used to someone mounting from a block, they may not like someone being above them. My young mare was a bit scared at first but I took it slowly and it is now second nature for her to stand by the mounting block to wait to be mounted.

I will explain how to mount using a mounting block with an experienced horse. Firstly make sure that the horse is correctly tacked up. Ensure that the girth is tight enough. After mounting it will probably be necessary to do the girth up another hole. Run down both stirrups and ensure that they are the correct length.

Next lead the horse over to the mounting block. It is usual practice to mount a horse from the near side which is the left. Situate the horse in a position where it will be comfortable and safe to mount from the block. Hold the reins in the left hand and a chunk of mane and stand on the block. Turn the stirrup around to face you with your right hand. You must face the tail end of the horse. Insert your left foot into the stirrup up to the ball of the foot. Keeping hold of the mane, gently bounce and swing your leg over the back in an easy, gentle motion whilst putting your right hand over the saddle. Sit lightly in the saddle initially, never plonk yourself down. When seated put your other foot in the other stirrup, place your reins in both hands, recheck your girth and you are ready to go.

Never be tempted to get on from too far away from the block because you can`t be bothered to move the horse. Likewise don`t get on at a strange angle. It may be easier mounting with a block but accidents can still happen.

Using a mounting block is good. It places less strain on the horses back, less strain on the saddle and of course it is easier for the rider. Some people are tempted to help pull themselves up with the saddle. This needs to be avoided if possible to avoid wear and tear of the saddle. As mounting from a block is easier, there is less temptation to do this.

I would advise safely using a mounting block when possible. Try not to become too reliant on it though. Practice getting on from the ground sometimes. When frequently using a mounting block, getting on from the ground can become much more difficult. When hacking you never know when you will need to get off. This is why it is important not to lose your ability to mount from the ground.

Tips for dealing with your cat's depression and anxiety issues..

2009-08-30T15:36:00.000+08:00

While most cats are well adjusted felines, there are some that have issues. Some kitties are nervous or highly sensitive, others are overly quiet and exhibit signs of depression. What is an owner to do?

How do you know?

Some of the ways an owner knows their cat has a mental concern is by abnormal behavior. A cat that hides a lot, or is wary of people it should know and trust, clearly has anxiety concerns. A cat who, for no medical reason, is urinating inappropriately is also showing signs of anxiety. A depressed cat will lay about and show no interest in play or receiving affection. Of the two, anxiety is far more common.

Causes and Solutions

You cannot treat a problem without knowing the cause. There are several causes of anxiety or depression in cats. Medication is often suggested as a solution, but should be used as a last resort as typically the side effects of medication may outweigh the benefits.

Hormones

This leads to sexual, and hormonal issues. An intact male cat will be constantly worried about the presence of other cats. Spraying and aggressive behavior are both common behaviors in this case. Spaying or neutering is generally the best solution for this problem. Occasionally a neutered pet will spray (always rule out medial reasons first) and there are stress relieving formulas you can purchase from a pet supply store to help calm a cat in this situation. As well the removal of any wandering stray pets from your area is a good idea too.

Declawing

This surgery does show behavioral changes in many cats. Often it increases their "flight or fight" response, meaning they become over sensitive to situations and may either flea or bite in response to a situation that may not even have escalated to require such a response. A declawed cat may even be so anxious that it will attack a dog who has not even provoked it or made itself into a threat. Declawed cats often become nervous biters. Since this surgery cannot be reversed, the best thing an owner can do is accept the behavior, or try using some of the stress relieving formulas as mentioned above.

Diet

A cat with food allergies might exhibit some behavioral problems. Food coloring does not benefit a food and can cause problems for pets, the foods that have multi colored pieces are usually the ones with the most food dyes. Additionally corn, and soy, are not very digestible to cats, and can cause behavioral problems. Cats are true carnivores, they need meat in their diet, not corn.

The connection between humans and dogs

2009-08-30T15:29:00.000+08:00

What is it about dogs that make us humans love them so much? Is it the unconditional love and affection you get from them or the fact that you can love them unconditionally without having to worry about whether you act right or look right? Whatever the reason, the hairy critters can work their way into your heart with hardly more than a wag of their tail or a look from their big brown (or blue) eyes.

It seems like I've always had a dog around. When I was tiny, my parents had a Toto-like dog similarly named Tojo. He was a small, black wiry little dog, but other than that, I don't remember too much about him. Then when I was about five and my family had been transferred to London (my father was a Marine), my parents found a breeder and got us a Westie (West Highland White Terrier to those who don't know the breed). She was named Misty (but we nicknamed her Ziggy) and she was the best dog great for my sister and I to play with and thought she was much bigger than she was. We had her until she was about 17 years old she flew across the Atlantic to our Montana home and grew up with us. I remember the day she died; I didn't even recognize my mom's voice on the phone telling me she was gone.

After Ziggy died, I was on my own and going to college so I was dogless' for a few years. Those years were a little chaotic, so probably best I didn't have a dog. But I did want one and when my then boyfriend (now husband) and I moved in together, we found a dog at the pound that we adopted he was a Bassett hound we named Otis. Talk about a stubborn little dog! He was definitely a character, though. We didn't end up keeping him; we moved across the country and ended up finding him a home with a lady who had another Basset. That was pretty amusing watching those two low-ground-clearance dogs chase each other around her house!

When my husband and I got married, we were in a pet store a few months afterward and found an adorable little cocker-cross puppy that was born on our wedding day I thought it was a perfect fit for us. I picked her up and she just cuddled right up on my shoulder. We named her Isabella which meant beautiful in Italian and she was a pretty little puppy. Blonde little fuzz ball with big brown eyes. She turned out to be the best dog we ever had. Sure, she had her moments like when she was a puppy and ate the TV. remote. Or when she'd get mad' at us for leaving her home and she'd throw a temper tantrum and eat the Kleenexes out of the bathroom garbage

The most dangerous dog breeds...

2009-08-30T14:17:00.000+08:00

The most dangerous breed of dog

Is it the American Pit Bull, known for it's massive jaws, it's unparalleled strength, it's reputation as a killer? (Perhaps, though most I've met are comical and lovable if a bit overzealous.)

The Rottweiler? Colossal body, menacing eyes, renowned traits as a guard dog? (Maybe. In the wrong hands they can be a nightmare waiting to happen.)

The German Shepherd, who can learn foreign languages and is often seen on the Animal Planet attacking a well-padded man? (It's possible. This is a breed that needs a job, and without one it's nervous energy can turn risky.)

Or is it the Cocker Spaniel, a breed shot to popularity from the beloved cartoon "Lady and the Tramp"? (No, couldn't possibly be!)

The Labrador Retriever, everyone's favorite companion and willing participant for endless games of Frisbee? (I know, who am I kidding?)

Or the Chihuahua, Paris Hilton's pocket pet of choice? (Well, almost every Chihuahua I've ever met has needed a muzzle.)

As someone who has grown up around animals and spent many years working in a veterinary hospital, I can attest that dangerous dogs are everywhere, sometimes walking around as a wolf in sheep's clothing, if you will.

Surprisingly, in my time as a vet tech, I have only seen two dogs put down due to aggressiveness. One was a white cocker spaniel, a beloved family pet that sadly felt displaced at the arrival of a human baby in the family-displaced enough to attack. After much deliberation his tearful owners decided to put him down.

The other was a chocolate lab that, according to its owners, "went crazy" and bit their son in the face. The boy was hospitalized, the dog put down immediately.

So what was different between those two dogs and all the other "dangerous dogs" out there?

In my opinion, the difference is in the owners. The owners of the Cocker Spaniel took action before anything grave happened. The owners of the chocolate lab took action immediately, but sadly it was not soon enough. One can only guess as to why the lab bit the child he'd grown up with. Was he stepped on by accident? Annoyed to the point of reacting the way a dog in the wild would-snapping at his foe? Or had the owners missed the cues for years?

In my experience, the most dangerous dogs, the ones the vet hospitals label "CAUTION" dogs (in bright red letters, nonetheless) are not always wearing the skin you might imagine. One of the most difficult dogs I've ever worked with was a German Short-haired Pointer. These dogs are often high